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Words of wisdom for first time competitors

For those going to their first ever agility trial or their first show with a young/new dog, here are some words of advice from seasoned competitors in no particular order, as compiled by Carla Ruigh from the AGILE E-list. And don't forget everyone was a Beginner once. Add your own to the list by sending them to Agilitynet.

  1. Do NOT expect the new dog to run just like the older dog. Even if the new dog is the same breed, it still is an individual. Remember it takes time for a dog to become consistent

  2. Walk the course for the dog you are running. Walk it several times, in fact. Learn the course, and slow down enough to make sure you follow it. Better to lose a second or two than have a fault because you are rushing.

  3. Every dog deserves to be loved for who they are flaws and all. Remember they love us.

  4. At the trial, try to focus ON the trial, NOT on stuff you left behind at work/home. If you can't put it aside, consider skipping the trial. You won't be able to concentrate, and you won't be able to hold up your end of running a course. It could turn into a bad experience for you and your dog - not what either of you need when starting out.

  5. Don't get discouraged! It was much harder than you think! You might suddenly felt like you've never had a dog at the end of a lead before.

  6. Practice you obedience commands. Have a good solid Sit-Stay. and a reliable Down. But don't ever forget that Agility isn't and shouldn't be the obedience ring. The dogs have to have be having fun to do it.

  7. Play some 'attention' games with your dog with a reward when he looks at you.

  8. Learn weaves from BOTH sides right from the beginning.  Always, always, always, always train your dog to do weave poles equally on left or right.

  9. Pretend that there are 20 weave poles and not 10 or 12. That way you won't anticipate handling for the next obstacle and step out, lift my head, etc.

  10. Get your dog to single stride through the weaves. No hopping if at all possible.

  11. It is human nature to want to get there as fast as possible but it frequently leaves serious holes in relationship and skills for the future. Make a long-term commitment to your agility. Enjoy the process and building foundation is really fun!

  12. Know where the Start and Finish lines are! The clock starts when you cross the line and doesn't stop until you go over the finish. I've seen faults for otherwise clean runs caused by the handler having his hand on the dog as they cross the Start line, or the handler starting to celebrate the run before crossing the finish line. 

  13. Work on stay on the Start line from the start.  If you don't have a start line you may be in big trouble. 

  14. In any class, don't assume that just because you see a bunch of people walking the course one way, means YOU should do it that way.

  15. Know your dog, what you've trained for, what will work, and do it! Not every trick works with every dog.

  16. Concentrate on telling the dog 'where to go' not 'what to do.' Don't just shout out obstacle commands. Point the dog in the right direction. You will have much more successful runs if you use commands like 'come', 'here', 'out', 'go', etc. than if you just use 'walk-on', 'tunnel', 'jump', etc.

  17. Do NOT keep running forward if the dog is headed in the wrong direction. That is basically sending a signal to the dog that says 'Go, go go!' Stop running until you get the dog heading the right way.

  18. Make sure to be a good sport no matter what happens on the course

  19. Remember most mistakes are handler-induced. Always give your dog the benefit of the doubt and don't make yourself look bad by having a screaming fit out on the course. Do NOT blame your dog for what was almost certainly not his fault.

  20. It is the dog's responsibility to perform the obstacles correctly. It is the handler's responsibility to manage the spaces in between.

  21. Don't wait until your dog is an adult to make him or her toy motivated! But don't take it into the ring. You'll be eliminated no matter how good your run.

  22. Don't say any negative words or I should say, no harsh tones in your voice. Your dog might shut down.

  23. Teach your dog to work away from the beginning. Work on 'sending away' and immediately coming back to you when asked from Day One. Velcro dogs don't do well.

  24. Don't look at the judge to know when to begin your run. It's the time who will let you know.

  25. Have your dog at the line when the gate steward or judge wants you to be.

  26. Trust your dog. They tend to fix your/our mistakes.

  27. Trust yourself when it comes to the training you get.

  28. Don't use bad language in the ring.

  29. Work more on your body language, having someone to really explain and show me how much body language affects your dogs performance..

  30. Relax.

  31. Don't rush to competition.

  32. Help out at trials before you enter if there are any near to you. You can learn a lot by watching and being involved.

  33. The mistakes people make
    ·               rush it , advance too quickly
    ·               expect to be perfect from the first moment
    ·               think you are ready for your first trial after only a couple of lessons
    ·               always blaming your dog for the mistakes
    ·               not making your movements very robotical so the dog can understand them easily
    ·               blabbing to your dog so he can not concentrate
    ·               not letting the dog go as fast as he can
    ·               not motivating your dog
    ·               not praising your dog
    ·               thinking the dog should understand what you mean
    ·               always blaming external facts for errors
    ·               not making sure your dog is in a fit condition
    ·               not keeping it simple or logical

  34. Begin training all obstacles with your dog on both sides - your left and right.

  35. Be patient and flexible. If one thing doesn't work, try something else.

  36. Keep it happy, keep it light, keep it short. Quit when you're ahead, and take it in small steps.

  37. Figure out what you want the finished picture to look like and train for that from the first.

  38. Remember that at least 99% of the mistakes are the handler's errors. It is the dog's responsibility to perform the obstacles correctly and in the order indicated by the judge.  It is the handler's responsibility to train the dog to perform those obstacles correctly and to communicate them properly to the dog.

  39. Wear shoes with proper traction. In grass or dirt this would be some kind of 'toothed sole,' a shoe that gives you confidence that you are not going to slip and fall. On carpeting don't wear a toothed sole. They're 'too grabby' on carpeting or mats and can cause knee or other injuries. And don't forget to double knot your shoelaces before a run.

  40. Remember that however you do on the agility course, your dog is your best friend and companion. The dog did not ask to do this.  

  41. In two weeks or two days no one is going to remember how you did on the course. However they will remember if you got angry with or otherwise acted like an idiot with your dog. And they will remember if you were upbeat and positive with your buddy as well.

  42. Read the Kennel Club rule book. The red one. It won't answer all questions but the official rule book is the right place to start. Know what you can do and what you can't. Often trainers are so used to the rules themselves that they forget to mention some of the simplest things to their students. Ignorance of the law is no excuse!

  43. Remember that there is a judge in the ring to make the calls. Don't anticipate his call, wait for it. If you make mistake, finish your round unless told to leave the course. 

  44. Start getting the dog comfortable with working on your RIGHT - right now!

  45. Do not train the dog to do anything in agility slowly. Teach the dog that doing obstacles at good speed from the beginning is a good thing.

  46. Also always have fun doing agility, do not do anything in agility if you CANNOT have a good time that session (like if you're tired or cranky).

  47. Praise like crazy for everything the dog does right, including just running fast.

  48. Use clicker training if at all possible (optional).

  49. Get used to the idea that 90% of anything you want to train has to be done on a regular basis almost every day. Most things start in the front room of your home or garden.

  50. Be positive. Don't ever use 'No' in agility with your dog.

  51. Get the best training you can right up front, do training days, drive farther if you have to get to the best positive trainers.

  52. Don't decide you'll teach your dog to stop/halt on the contacts 'later.' Do NOT be sloppy about teaching contacts. You'll pay dearly for letting it jump off or leave without permission early on. Make sure you train the up-contacts as well as the down contacts. 

  53. Warm up your dog (and yourself) properly with running before you run. Make sure neither of you are too hot or too cold. Stretching is good for both of you.

  54. Teach her that her "place" or 'spot' or 'bottom' is actually a physical place, not a command.

  55. Keep in mind that the most important thing is the bond you have with your dog

  56. The most important thing in Agility or Obedience is to work on your relationship with your dog.

  57. Discover all the things that motivate your dog and use them. Develop games that work on the relationship, motivation and attention.

  58. Have to have a sense of humor. Dog will be dogs. And so will some runs!

  59. Be aware of training conditions. Don't ask your dog to do something that could be dangerous

  60. Don't be afraid to speak up or question.

  61. Never, NEVER work your dog while your frustrated. Be it from a traffic jam getting to agility class, PMS, family squabbles, another dog doing something wrong, don't do it. You'll likely end up taking it out on your dog by scolding him unnecessarily/harshly, or he'll feel it through your tone and body language and turn off. Remember, this is only a game and is supposed to be fun. If one of you has to leave feeling disappointed it should be you - never your dog.

  62. Teach the table at the correct height right from the start. Remember you cannot touch the table or the dog during a run.

  63. Watch a Senior or Advanced class at a show or at training. Watch the handlers, not the dogs. 

  64. If something goes wrong don't blame the dog. Treat your dog with utmost respect. He/she could be running around independently but chose to work for you. What a privilege we have!

  65. Make small goals for each run. 'clean run' is an end result NOT a goal. Narrow the  scope. Saying "I want a clean run" is like saying I am going to clean my entire house from top to bottom-every nook and cranny TODAY. Focus on the positive that happened on course; later sit down and write down what you can improve on.

  66. When being a spectator don't give negative input to your peers-remember the old saying 'kill the messenger'? Find something they achieved and bring it to their attention. You will be surprised how many people will be glad to give them the negative-decide  to be different. I still can remember people who were kind to me.

  67. Work on timing-have your trainer call out commands as you are also working and verbalizing your commands. You can get a better idea of how to adjust your timing. They can tell you that you are late-but the only way I could tell how late I was to do it this way. It was very helpful when she did this.

  68. Mark problem areas on printed courses with a yellow marker at the show after each run. You will think you will remember where you felt extra challenged but after a few days you will be less clear. This will give your trainer added insight on how they can help you.

  69. Work contacts away from a lot of stimuli at first. Get the foundation. Then slowly add more environment. I did this more with my second dog and it helped him a lot. Look at external stimuli as proofing. If it is too much don't be afraid to step back a bit and try later.

  70. Don't forget to play and reward the dog with your enthusiasm. Purposely get them energized after they know their job. Simulate the rush they get at a show and see how well they hold together.

  71. Find a training partner that has a dog that really rings your dogs bell. You will follow a lot of dogs that will really get your dogs blood up. Get used to working with that energy and drive. Put gusto in the way you  work the course just like you will do at a show.

  72. Work your dog the same way you will at a show. Body language, voice, etc. Don't change your approach just because it is a show environment The dog does not understand that.

  73. Go back to basics often.

  74. Work contacts and be consistent. Work them with you as handler hanging back , running along with them, and running past them.

  75. Love your dog to bits because you won't have them with you nearly as long as you'd like to. To them this is the most wonderful game you can play with them.

  76. You are paying the judge for their opinion. Be a good sport. If you have a question ask them at an appropriate time and that does not mean argue with them. Just ask their perspective. It might be something that will help you in training. Most of the judges show, too. They are human and can only see as they see it.

  77. Surround yourself with positive people who enjoy sharing what they know. You will learn a lot about the sport that way. I can never repay all of the wonderful friends I have met at agility trials. Some of the nicest people you will ever meet are competitors.

  78. Make sure your dog gets rest and time out.

  79. Make sure your dog has water and is drinking. If your dog is not drinking, add just a small small touch of milk to the water. I have never seen a dog turn it down at a show.

  80. Celebrate (whatever that means to your own dog) with your dog for a good time after your runs.

  81. Note the routine that works for you before a run. If you watched the top handlers, you'll see that most of them have a way they setup their dogs and release them. Above all, they are consistent.

  82. Work on a fast table. I have seen awesome dogs lose valuable time right there. If you are going to compete in international classes start by teaching your dog down, sit AND stand. It will pay off later. Make the table fun for the dog. I had a Sheltie so sold on the table that she would try to go to it instead of any other obstacle. The table represented a very fun place for her. We had races to the table and did all sorts of games. She loved it.

  83. Wear the shoes you will wear in the show when you practice. Practice working in different footing i.e.: grass, sand, carpet. etc. It is most likely that the dog will adapt easier than you! Practice on different equipment.

  84. Keep control of your dog. It is not polite to let your dog sniff other dogs or get into their space. When you are standing in line keep your eyes open. Watch. You  are your dogs advocate. Not everyone is polite and watches space issues. Don't be afraid to kindly ask someone to move their dog out of your dogs personal space.

  85. Have someone video you in training and at shows. It can be used as a good training tool. It is also makes for wonderful memories!

  86. Don't let the 60 seconds you are in the ring color your whole day. While it may seem like the reason you are there, try to relax and have fun before and after your run. Enjoy the atmosphere, spending time with your friends (especially the canine ones), help out and watch all the great (and not so great) runs. If things in the ring don't go as planned, tomorrow is another day. Let it roll off of you and move on!

  87. Never, NEVER work your dog while your frustrated. Be it from a traffic jam getting to agility class, PMS, family squabbles, another dog doing something wrong, don't do it. You'll likely end up taking it out on your dog by scolding him unnecessarily/harshly, or he'll feel it through your tone and body language and turn off.

  88. Have a pee before you go to the line.

  89. Remove your dog's collar before you run. You will be eliminated before you start if you don't.

  90. Leave your lead at the Start line. Someone else from the ring party will take it to the Finish.

  91. Try to get to the show venue early.

  92. Wait for the TImer to start you. They'll say something like 'In your own time' or 'when you're ready.'

  93. Don't forget to bring your ring card and running order. Bring your own safety pin to pin your running number on.

  94. Don't believe the weather forecast. Bring weather gear even if it is not raining when you set off. It might downpour at any time!

  95. Never forget that your principle job is as team leader.

  96. My tip is don't stop handling your dog in the ring. Sometimes you think you gotten a fault and let your handling go and mess up something else, then come to find out you never got the original fault. When you let up so does your dog.

  97. Know what your running number is and stay available to queue up when called.

  98. Don't let your dog back jump.

  99. Ask an experienced friend or club member to watch and comment on your run.

  100. You cannot touch your dog during a run.

And don't forget:-

101. Have a lovely time How could you NOT?

From Deanna Siow

  • Remember that your dog might be just as stressed or nervous as you are.
  • Try not to take failed courses out on your dog.
  • On the start line, set your dog up far enough away from the first jump so they will have a fighting chance to clear it!
  • Train your dogs to weave!
  • Try to enjoy this new game with your dog - every aspect of it, not  just the ribbons and the moment of glory. (16/06/02)
Drawing: Agilitybladet

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