Dear Abbey...

It can be hard to smile while others around you are 'winning' and you don't know what's gone wrong. Is some aspect of training getting you down? Well, help is at hand. If you are worried about an agility problem that doesn't require a hands-on assessment, send your question by email to the Agility's own Agony Aunt who will try to make some positive suggestions to start you on your way towards having fun again.

As we all know, there's usually more than one answer to any question, so if you have a tip or some other/more advice about any of the questions here, send them to Agilitynet. Your comments could be the starting point for a useful discussion and we all can learn something new. There's always more than one way to skin a cat.

Scared Dog

  Q.  Hi -

My name is felicity Muhl and I am 12 years old. I have a two year old Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever who excelled in agility until a couple of weeks ago.

We were doing a course of jumps and she knocked one over. To make matters worse, it just started to rain. Lady was very spooked by all this and now will not go over any obstacles let alone off lead. She won’t even go into the indoor equestrian center where we train. I have been doing some canes of jumps in my garden but she still isn’t getting any better. I am thinking of giving up agility and concentrating on my other disciplines if she doesn’t get better. I am training her every other day in some hope that her confidence will come back.

Please can you give me some advice on what to do? Thank you very much.

 Felicity

  A.  Hi Felicity -

Just when everything is going well, something like this happens! Your dog’s confidence has been knocked and so has yours. One single negative experience can jeopardize all your positive training. Try and rise above it. If you have laid good agility foundations, you and Lady will recover ground quickly and be back to winning trophies soon.

Vet Check
Lady may be refusing to jump because it hurts. Have her checked by your vet. She may have bruised her toe or pulled a muscle when she knocked the hurdle. The only way she can tell you that something is wrong is by changing from a dog that excels at agility to one that is reluctant to even try to go over the jumps.

Take a break
Lady may think that the poles leap out of the cups and attack a Toller’s knee caps. We know that’s not true, but she is only a dog and her knee hurts. The association between jumping and hurting herself is fresh. Rather than training her everyday, let her have a holiday. Give it time and the memory will fade. Do some obedience or heel work to music so she has something different to think about. And you’ll forget her fear of poles, too.

Don’t force the issue
The more you try to drag Lady over the jumps, the more she may try and resist. You could make matters worse. The equipment will become obstacles of confrontation rather than fun. Encourage, but don’t coerce. Praise and reward Lady for what she offers you voluntarily.

Baby steps
Don’t expect Lady to take giant steps back to being a fully functional agility dog. She has had a frightening experience. She will make a speedier recovery if she takes baby steps although she will have to take many more of them. If she looks at a hurdle, reward her lavishly with treats. Next time, she will take one step towards it, next time two steps and so on.

Start at the very beginning
Take Lady right back to the beginning. Lay poles on the ground, lower the A-frame, and shorten the tunnel. You won’t be starting from scratch, but retraining. It will be an opportunity for you to make each step a positive experience for Lady. Your confidence and trust in each other on the equipment will resurface.

I believe that you and Lady will be back on the agility field very soon. You obviously love Lady very much and I know that will give you the patience and understanding to help her overcome her fears.

Barkin'

  Q.  Hi Auntie -

I have just started agility with my very keen/bright 2 year old rescue border collie. My problem is not with the training, but with his incessant barking during training! Generally he’s a pretty quiet dog (for a collie), but watching the other dogs working and waiting his turn just drives him nuts! He does understand my command for 'quiet' because it works in other situations. I am not sure if I should continue to try and quieten him during training (for the sake of our eardrums) because I worry if that will make it less fun. Getting him to sit with his back to the action facing the wall does work, but it’s not possible to do this often due to the mobile nature of training! Any help and suggestions would be great!

Mandy (Going deaf) in Bristol

  A.  Hi Mandy,

Take out your ear plugs. What is your dog trying to tell you?

Excited barking
I think this type of bark is permissible in agility.  It expresses joy in life and anticipation of good things to come. I don’t object to this kind of barking in class. You hear it at every agility show, so get use to it. However, as an instructor, I would not compete with it during lessons. No woofs when I’m talking. Continue to teach your dog to speak and to be quiet on command. Try to divert his attention with a toy if you want him to shut up. Or simply continue to remove him temporarily from the training area which is triggering his excited barks.

Hysterical barking
Take it as a warning that your dog has wound himself up and could explode! He may even try to nip you. He won’t mean to hurt you, but he just won’t be able to help himself. Put your dog in a down stay until he has gained control of himself. 

Frustrated barking
If you hear this bark, it is because you have slowed down on the course or lost your way. Make sure you know where you are going and what you are doing.  Plan each run in advance and execute it confidently and positively. Your commands should be clear and your timing immaculate. Your dog won’t be baffled and he’ll have to work to keep up with you.

Really fed up barking
Your dog is pressurising you to get a move on. He is even more frustrated and about to burst because you are hesitating again.  There is a hint of desperation and his body posture might be a tad confrontational.  If you don’t hurry up and decide which fence to send him over, he‘ll decide for you.  As your handling improves, these situations should become fewer. In the meantime, turn your back on your dog.  Go to the end of the queue till he has regained his composure. Leave the building if you have to. You don’t do agility with a dog that tries to handle you over the course.  That is your job.  When your dog is quiet, take up where you left off, on your terms. Teach him that silence is the starter whistle for agility.

For some dogs, barking is as natural as breathing. It can be as addictive as gambling, alcohol or drugs.  Anti-bark collars or a spray of water will help break the barking habit, but your dog is making noise because he is frustrated or confused on the agility course.  Remove your dog’s vocal cords and you’ll miss your dog’s feedback on your handling skills.  Once they improve and he has fewer comments to make on your technique, he’ll be a quieter dog.

Holy Moses

  Q.  Dear Agility Aunt -

I rescued my Border Collie Moses. He had a lot of problems chasing cars, bikes, anything that moved. He hated children so much he would, I think, bite them if I gave him the chance. All of these problems with patience and time and using the family's children I have solved. I have one problem left which I cannot solve. I have even spent money on behaviourist.

At home he is a normal happy dog. Strangers can now come without him biting their ankles although we do watch him carefully. I attend Clifton Agility Club. Club members have been brilliant at helping me but he still tries to nip at their ankles and can look quite threatening which resulted in him wearing a muzzle. On advice, I stopped taking him to training for a year and worked on his behavior at home. He has been brilliant.

He seemed so normal until I took him agility training last week. Thank goodness I did muzzle him because friend who knows the dog passed and he tried to nip at her ankle. He was not over aggressive but he still did it. Do you think I can overcome this? I would dearly like to work him and take him to shows. He needs the work, but I feel the risk is too great.

Jean Boniface

  A.  Hi Jean -

You are a very rare kind of person. You not only love Moses very much, but are totally committed and willing to put in the time and effort to help him become a well balanced dog who enjoys life. He could not have found a better owner. You are aware that Moses has a problem and you monitor it. And I am delighted to hear that your agility club has been supportive and tried to help you both.

Agility is a high energy, adrenalin driven sport. We have all seen dogs become over-excited, bark hysterically or lunge at passing dogs and people. Who hasn’t seen a collie cross the finish line and take a nip at his handler?  And if it was a winning round, all is forgiven! Yes, a well motivated dog is a joy to own if his enthusiasm doesn’t get out of hand. It is the agility handler’s responsibility to manage his dog’s excitement and keep it within acceptable boundaries. But this is not always easy and, if a dog already has behavioural problems, the agility environment can be a tough test.

You now have Moses’ behaviour under control at home. It’s taken time, but was worth your perseverance. Visitors to your house are safe and so are their ankles. But by taking Moses to an agility class, you are upping the ante, and still expecting him to mind his manners.  Unfortunately, in the excitement of the agility environment, Moses old habits have resurfaced. He is unable to cope and finds it hard to act in a civilized manner when he is surrounded by lots of people and their dogs racing over agility equipment. Agility classes are not helping Moses.  They are making it more difficult for him to do the right thing. He is not ready for you to up the ante. He may never be. 

You could make readying Moses to attend agility classes your life’s work, but is agility really necessary to complete his happiness? I love agility and so do my dogs, but I can remember a time when I had dogs and didn’t know that there was such a thing as agility. I don’t think my dogs were any less happy or unfulfilled for never jumping hurdles. Moses behavioural troubles should take priority over agility.  His problems may be deep seated and may need continued remedial work in conjunction with a canine behaviourist. Your agility trainer can tell you how to hit the contacts, but finding out why Moses acts aggressively or bites is beyond his remit. Your primary goal should be ensuring that Moses continues to be a valued companion for your family and a good canine citizen in your community. I am sure that you will do all in your power to achieve it.

Reply...
The answer from Auntie makes a lot of sense and puts everything into perspective for me. I knew that was the answer but needed someone to tell me. I can still do agility as I have a two year old collie bitch who as no problems (unless I create them). She's enjoying it and so am I.

From Karen Fuller...
My dog had similar history and problems. I trained her with only one other dog for about four months. Once she had learned how to do the equipment and focus on me and her training, she was then able to join in class situations. Maybe private lessons would help you both. Good luck.

Can Crossbreeds Do Agility?

  Q.  Hello -

Are there ever any dog agility classes for mongrel dogs? The dogs I train are not pedigree, although one is but she hasn't got papers. If you could let me know, it would be very much appreciated. Thank you.

Miss E.C. Tutton

  A.  Hi Miss Tutton -

Agility is for all sizes and for all breeds of dogs and their crosses. If your dogs are in good health and at least a year old, there is no reason why they shouldn't join a class and try agility.

Not everyone wants a pedigree dog. Some blue blood dogs are exorbitantly expensive and if you want a rare breed, you can be on a waiting list for years.  Puppies from an accidental mating of your neighbor’s pet can be had more quickly and are often a cheaper option.  You won’t be able to anticipate what the pups will look like when they grow up, but you do know that they will be individuals that stand out in a crowd. 

You will be surprised to learn that many agility folk actually choose a crossbreed over a pedigree dog. They see a combination dog working in the ring, admire the dog’s style and set out to find a pup with a similar make up. Border Collie crossed with German Shepherd, Poodle or Bearded Collie have all been popular mixes and sometime purposefully bred for obedience and agility handlers. In addition, some crosses have been planned with size in mind. Small dog handlers have tried to miniaturize Border Collies by mating them with Jack Russells. Sadly, just because a dog sports black and white markings doesn't mean he will have the trainability and work ethic of a collie! There is no guarantee that the best traits of both breeds will dominate in the pups of a cross mating.

You will see crossbreeds competing at agility shows across the country including Crufts, the biggest dog show in the world. And you will see them winning! Your dog does not necessarily have to be a pedigree to enter Kennel Club shows but he must be enrolled on the Working Trials and Obedience Register at the Kennel Club. It’s your chance to give your pet a fancy name. Other organisations running agility competitions will have their own system of registration, but will welcome you with open arms.

Get out there and find a friendly agility club. I look forward to seeing you and your dog on the circuit.

Some Questions

  Q.  Hello -

Could you recommend to me any of the books/videos for teaching a dog obstacles?  

Also can I ask where you would recommend buying a collie pup from? Farm, breeder, agility breeder?  How you pick a good agility dog from a litter?

Thank you.

Sophie

  A.  Hi Sophie -

What a lotta questions! To answer your first question, there are a selection of books and videos listed in the Agility Warehouse.  Some of the books have also been reviewed on this site so you can get an idea of what other people have thought after reading them. My all time favourite agility book is Agility is Fun - Book 1 by Ruth Hobday.  I would also recommend Agility - a Step by Step Guide by John Gilbert and Patrick Gilmour and How to Teach Dogs Agility Obstacles by Peter Lewis.

As for choosing a collie pup with agility in mind, everyone wants something different and there are never any guarantees that, no matter how hard you try and stack the cards in your favour, that you will get what you want.  These are some of the things I would consider. 

Registered or Not Registered
The Kennel Club recognize Border Collies as a pedigree breed. When you buy a puppy from a pedigree breeder, you not only get the dog but a list of his ancestors. The International Sheep Dog Society (ISDS) also has a register of Border Collies and keeps track of who sired who.  And it is possible for a collie to be dual registered. Knowing a dog's ancestors is important if you are trying to predict a puppy's future strengths and weaknesses. If your pup comes from a line of giants, it's likely he will be large, too. Many collies are not registered with either the Kennel Club or the ISDS, but that doesn't necessarily mean you won't be able to meet a puppy's Mum, Dad or other relatives. 

Health
Conscientious breeders will screen their dogs for the diseases that are inheritable by collies. For example, the sire and dam will be hip scored and eye tested before a mating. In addition, they will ensure that the puppies are wormed and kept free of fleas. Take as many steps as possible to ensure that the puppy you choose is not only bouncing with good health, but is likely to stay fit and trouble free in the future. To do agility, your dog will need more than a leg on each corner.

Where to buy?
You can get a collie from almost anywhere. They are advertised on the internet, on the newsagent's board and in the local paper. I like home bred puppies because they are accustomed to the sound of the TV, the vacuum cleaner and pots and pans rattling on the cooker.  They are more likely to meet lots of different types of people - the milkman, granny and all the neighborhood kids.  The puppy's education has started before you bring him home.  But this can happen in a kennel too.  The radio is on all the time and prospective buyers visit to handle the pups.  If you get a puppy from someone already in agility bear in mind that the breeder will be at shows to watch you run.  If your puppy's brothers and sisters have also gone to agility homes, comparisons are bound to be made on the litter's progress through the classes. 

Fitting in?
Agility is actually a very small part of a dog's life. Your dog is going to be your best friend and pet. Think of how a puppy will best fit into your family when making your choice. If you have other dogs, will they be more welcoming to a bitch or another dog? Do you want a submissive dog or do you need a dog that will rule the roost and keep the other dogs in order? 

What sort of trainer are you?
Try to pick yourself a good match. Are you one of those people that are a little inhibited and find it difficult to motivate and excite their dogs?  Don't pick the laid back puppy. Think carefully and honestly. When you stand up, do you exude authority? If not, you could have a life time of trouble if you choose the puppy that wants to be the leader of the pack. View more than one litter. How do they react with you - do the pups leave you cold or is there chemistry? You can teach a puppy to tug on a toy, but you can't teach a puppy personality.

Once you have picked your puppy, he will grow into the dog that you make him. Don't make your task more difficult by starting with a pup that has behaviour or health problems. 

Cloned

Weaving Beagle

  Q.  Dear Auntie -

My name is Kayla and I'm 13 years old. I have a 8 month year old pure bred beagle and his name is Remigtion James.  He is my best friend and is very smart. He does every thing like sit and stay, speak and shake, lay down and even roll over, but want I really want him to do is agility. I don't think I will really compete with him because there is nowhere to do that where I live, but I have read in many places that doing agility with beagles helps their mind and they love playing mind games.

My dog will not weave. He does everything else. Please tell me what I should do to make him weave. If you have any advice, please email me back. It would be a great help so my dog and I can have a fun time training without weaving being so stressful.

Thanks, Kayla

  A.  Hi Kayla -

Remigtion James is a very smart beagle to be able to do all those tricks while still so young.  And I'm so glad to hear that he is your best friend and that you are having lots of fun together.

Agility is another thing you can do with your pet and have a good time, but some things in agility are hard for your dog to learn. You could wait until James was a little older and a little smarter - the weaves are one of the most difficult pieces of agility equipment to teach. Look at it from James' point of view. He probably thinks, 'You want me to wiggle in and out of those poles. What's the point? What's wrong with running in a straight line?' Let's face it. If I asked you to walk in and out of a row of poles, you'd think I was crazy. If I asked you to do it over and over again, you would get really bored and look for something more interesting to do like skate boarding or playing football.  If you want to teach your beagle to weave, you must make it fun and rewarding. Make it a game and inject lots of fun.

There are many different ways to teach a dog how to weave. Why don't you try luring? I hope this will be an easy training method for you to use and understand. Most beagles love a bit of cheese or sausage meat and will follow the hand that holds a tasty morsel anywhere. Show him where to go with a lure of his favourite treat.

1. Put two poles in the ground about two feet apart. The poles should be about a foot taller than your dog at his withers.

2. Start with James on your left with a treat or toy in your left hand. Lure James between the poles by attaching the treat to his nose and leading him through. Make sure he passes the first pole by his left shoulder and the second pole is passed by his right shoulder.  An agility dog must always enter the weaves with the first pole on his left.

3. Be aware of what you are doing with your feet. Use your left foot to step across to the second pole. This will block James and ensure he goes through the poles and not past them.

4. Be sure to reward James with his tidbit or toy as he is moving through the gap. You can either give him his treat directly from your hand or throw it ahead of him (this takes a little more co-ordination on your part and it is important to get the timing just right).

5. When you have done this a few times and James is passing between the poles eagerly and smoothly, give the action a command like 'weave' or 'poles.'  Practice this lots, but stop practicing while James is still keen, not after he has switched off and is looking for mischief somewhere else. 

6. The next step is to see if James will trot between the poles without so much help. Try to slowly phase out the lure and see if he will do some of the work for you.  Instead of taking the lure around the poles, keep it on one side or use your hand as if you are holding a treat (but have the treat in an easy access pocket to give him as soon as he finishes). Making the transition from direct to indirect luring is difficult for many dogs. It can take a while for the penny to drop.  James needs to think 'What do I have to do to get a biscuit? Oh yes! I bet she'll give me a Bonio if I run between those poles!'  Wait for him to make the first move and give him a jack pot of treats if he does the business! You can always return to direct luring if he goes completely blank.  You don‘t want your dog to give up if he is confused or unsure of what you want him to do. Refresh his memory and make it easy for him to get it right.

7. If James gets good at two poles, add another two to the line. If he gets good at four poles, add another two to make six and so on.  You may have trouble keeping up with him!

Build up James' confidence. Always praise him when he is being good. Have you thought of teaching James to weave between a row of bollards, plant posts, or dustbins? There are many things you can set up in the garden and weave around. And don't forget to teach him to weave between your legs - you'll always have those handy!

  Q.  Dear Agility Auntie -

Your recent article to advise someone with weaves reminded me of seeing a further method of weaves. I think you have mentioned it in your reply. Its about using two stick-in-poles set apart and then bringing them together, then adding another pair and another. It was only briefly described. Would Agility Aunt be willing to elaborate on the teaching method and the most appropriate steps in progression?

Many thanks

Angela Lucas

  A..   Hi Angela -

There are so many ways of teaching the weaves. The difficulty is choosing the method that is easiest for you to apply and easiest for you and your dog to understand. Some trainers are purist. They use one method only from beginning to end with each and every dog they own. Other trainers mix and match, combining training techniques. And still others take a little bit from this and a little bit from that to cobble together something completely unique. I've seen some methods that work and some that don't. The majority of methods, whether a traditional or new one, fail because the dog is progressed too quickly through the training steps.

The method of teaching weaves that has caught your interest is called the '2 x 2 Weave Pole Method.'  It was devised by Susan Garrett who describes each step in the American agility magazine, Clean Run, April 2003. She followed it with an article called 'Troubleshooting Weave Entries - Two by Two' in Clean Run (September 2003.)  If you can find some back copies, they are clearly illustrated and well worth a read. She has dissected the act of weaving into little chunks and advises increasing the number of poles by back chaining them in pairs. Handlers start by teaching their dog that the first two poles are a 'gate'. Pass through it and the dog reaps high value rewards. Another pair of poles are added. The end result is a dog that views the weaves as a series of gates or entries to drive through. When I last judged, I expected to hear at least one handler shout 'gate!' and see their dog zoom through the poles. It's a good command and I can't understand why no one uses it. The 2 x 2 method can be divided into four parts: the first gate, the second gate, the line and adding on.

The Gate

1. Place two poles in the ground a couple of feet apart.

2. Shape your dog to move straight across through the gap or 'gate' rather than diagonally as he would do if he was really weaving. Build up a positive association with the poles by rewarding often. Avoid luring your dog between the poles. He needs to learn to make decisions that reap a rewards. In addition, the dog should be rewarded for looking at the poles or beyond them to a thrown toy, not back at you.

3. Make sure your dog is driving through the gap to a toy or bait bag whether you are standing still or running. Run with your dog on the left and right or run ahead of him. Your dog should be having pleasant dreams of gates at night!

4. It's time to see how well your dog understands the meaning of the word 'gate'. If you move the poles so that they look like a staggered entry - 'pole one is at eight o'clock and pole two is at two o'clock.' Don't ask your dog to bend. Send your him straight ahead through the gap and, if he motors through the gate, throw his toy ahead of him or in front of the second pole. Again, do this running on the left and right or ahead of him.

5. If your dog is accurate and keen, you can try working an 'arc'. The arc is an imaginary semi-circle. From it you can send your dog from different angles through the gate. You will be asking your dogs to bend a little bit more into the gate and out the other side. Don't forget to throw your toy!

The Second Gate

1. Don't introduce the second gate too soon!  Your dog must be gagging for the first gate and accurate at finding it. Take two more poles and place them directly behind the first pair. One should touch the pole in the eight o'clock position and the other should touch the pole in the two o'clock position. The gate looks the same but there are two poles on either side of your dog. You should continue working the arc through the gate, sometimes running and sometimes standing still, but always rewarding with a thrown toy for speed and accuracy.

2. Move the second poles back so that they are about 4 - 6in. apart. Continue to work the arc. Your dog will be learning that there is another set of poles in the weaving equation.

3. Move the poles back so that they are about 48in. apart. Do not move them gradually, but in one giant step. You want the dog to see two separate gates (two entries) in a line. Continue working an arc through the sequence of two gates and maintain drive by throwing a toy or adding a low jump after the last gate.

The Line

1. If your dog is driving through the two gates, you can gradually start moving the poles into a line and reducing the size of the gap. Slowly bring in the second and fourth pole. Keep working the arc and keep throwing your toy. Keep standing still or running on the left and right.

2. The second pair of poles should be aligned first. You can leave the first set of poles slightly open so that the dog has no trouble recognizing the gate. Keep working the arc and varying your body movement.

3. If your dog understands what you want him to do, you can align the first set of poles with the second. Finally four poles in a line and the weaves look as they would do in a competition! Continue working the arc. Keep your dog motivated to drive forward and look ahead.

4. Are you happy?  You should be. If your dog's weaving matches your performance criteria, add a command. Why not try 'gate'?

Adding On

If you want to add more poles, simply back chain by putting a third pair of poles in front of your original four. You can start with them slightly open so that your dog sees another gate and will have no trouble finding it. He should already knows what to do with the two that follow. Send your dog through and throw a toy as a reward. Work the arc. Vary your body position. When you have brought these poles into alignment and your dog is powering accurately through the gates, add another pair of poles and so on.

If you want to teach or retrain your dog to weave in a week-end, this is not the method for you. Each step needs to thoroughly learned by the dog and proofed before the next step is attempted. Some dogs catch on fast and others learn a little bit more slowly. They all get there in the end. Remember, it is not the method that fails the dog, but the impatient handler who overestimates the dog's understanding of a task and introduces a new twist too soon.

Poles Apart

  Q.  Hi -

I'm not sure where to start but I'm really having a problem with the weave poles. I am sure if I just keep at it eventually she'll get it.

I have just starting competing with my young female Border Collie in South Africa. I starting training the Susan Garret two
by two method and eventually gave up and moved onto open weaves and slowly moving them closer and closer. I vary my position and the amount of sticks and the environment we are in. At the moment she is just too variable so it's difficult to figure out where it's going wrong. Sometimes she's fast and accurate -usually on the practice sticks not the set with a solid base. Other times she's slow and unmotivated and still other times she's fast and does two at a time. She also may start at the fourth stick or jump out at the sixth stick.

I have used a clicker in some of my training sessions. Her motivation is dropping more and more as she hates getting things wrong and gives up easily. She does work for a toy but it wasn't easy to get her to and she will only play with the one. If I ever had to lose it, my life would be over. Do you have any fun games/exercises that would motivate her again.

Kath Muskett &  Penelope (Cape Town)

  A..   Hi Kath,

It sounds as if your dog is able to learn but doesn't understand what you are trying to teach her. That is why her performance is so variable and why she is loosing confidence and motivation. Your dog has put all the ingredients from different training methods that you have taught her in a bowl. She has mixed them together and shoved them in the oven. Sadly, what she had baked is not something you would put on the table.

Dogs learn only one thing at a time. Some dogs can swallow a thought the size of a melon without any mental mastication. Shape them through the weaves on the lead a few times and presto - they are weavers and always hungry for more. Other dogs can only manage a thought the size of a pea … and then they are full. They need bite size pieces that they can digest without choking. Use your knife and fork to dissect the weaves. Here are some little pieces to consider:

Entry
If you concentrate on this aspect of weaving, use two poles and click the entry and reward. Make sure your dog is attacking with gusto and from any angle before putting anything else on her plate.

Speed
Use channel or V-weaves to build speed through the poles. It should be fun and rewarding, especially if a favourite  food or toy is at the end. And yes, channel and v- weaves can teach accurate entries and exits, but if you are breaking things down, you will have selected this tool to teach one specific thing (speed) and anything else will be incidental. 

Accuracy
Attach the lead or put your hand on the dogs collar and thread her through the poles. Not my favourite method of training, but it's how they use to do it in the good ole days. And, you will be ensuring every pole is performed perfectly from beginning to end.

Exit
Click and reward the last two poles. Start with four poles and gradually add two more and then another two till you are at the maximum number. Remember that if you are concentrating on your dog's exit, it doesn't matter what is happening in the weaves elsewhere.

You can teach each part of the weaves as a series of small, separate exercises. One of the advantages of doing so is that you are able to treat and reward your dog more frequently and more quickly which will keep her confident and motivated. Only when your dog has mastered a particular exercise will she be ready to move on and learn something new. Don't ask for more too soon.

Combining
If you go this route, think not only about what pieces you are going to break the weaves down into, but what order these exercises will be combined and taught. For example, are you going to teach  speed before entry?  Entry before exit? Entry before accuracy? 

And don‘t be surprise if when you add a new exercise to an old one, your dog forgets what she learnt before. As she becomes more confident in the new exercise, her skill in the older one will re-surface. Have faith. t will all come together.

There are now so many different ways that the weaves can be taught successfully. If you choose just one, you must follow through even when the going gets tough. If you choose to combine different methods for teaching different aspects of weave behaviour, you must be thorough with each and teach your dog how to combine them. Otherwise you‘ll end up with a salad instead of a cake.

Good luck training the weaves. Stick to your chosen training program and avoid indigestion!

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  Q.  Hi Auntie,

Thanks so much for all your advice. Penny is really coming along and won and qualified for the first time at the end of last year. Her underlying problem in the sticks now is charging for the entry and doing the second and third poles together. In practise, I've opened the second and third pole just to help her learn to control her body at speed.

I'm interested to know what your take is on what to do in competition if she goes wrong in the weaves, run on or go back and do them again until she gets them right? My main aim with her is motivation and speed and to me speed and drive is so much more important at entry level as a slow dog is never going to win at the top. Basically I'm worried that going back to complete an exercise will slow her down, at the moment she is only getting faster and faster. On the other hand though there is the argument she will learn to skip poles in competition as she is allowed to? She is getting them right most of the time in competition but usually I've slowed her down so in practice we are still working at speed and I really want to stop slowing her down in competition.

It may be too late but I have included a picture of Penny. Unfortunately I have none of her in the weave poles.

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