Questions & answers...
 Now
you've tried agility with your dog and been hooked, you know it is fast and furious - and not
as easy as it looks! Problems can and do occur and that's where our Agility Agony Aunt Mary Ann
Nester comes in. If you are have an agility problem that doesn't require a hands-on assessment,
email your question to
Agilitynet and we will ask Auntie to suggest some
possible answers to start you on your way towards having fun again.
You can read more of Auntie's suggestions for success in her
book Agility Dog
Training Q&A, available from Agility Warehouse.
Pure Breeds and/or Crossbreeds
Q.
Good day -
I live in
South Africa where I train a Border Collie and Jack Russell in Agility and Dog Jumping! For
this Agility, do you think that you could please let me know if this is for Pure Bred Dogs or
is it for Cross Breeds too?
Your feedback
would be much appreciated.
Lindsay Seller
A.
Hi Lindsay -
Dog agility is
for all breeds and types of dogs. As long as your dog is fit and able, you can train him to
jump hurdles and climb the A-frame. And agility doesn't stop there. I have seen videos of
rabbit agility. As long as you and your pet are having fun together, agility is always a
possibility!
Competition is
different from training. Contact your national kennel club and find out if there are any entry
restrictions at agility shows licensed by them. In this country, dogs must be registered with
our Kennel Club on either the Breed Register (pedigree dogs) or Activity Register
(cross-breeds) in order to compete at Kennel Club shows. In addition, there are a number of
independent organisations that run agility shows operating under their own rules and
regulations regarding registration. There may be similar in your part of the world, so check
them out. Whether a crossbreed is allowed to compete will depend on the organisation accepting
show entries.
Good luck with
your dogs and have fun!
Jump Heights
Q.
Hi -
I'm trying to
find the heights of jumps for Small, Medium and Large dogs so that I can correctly fix my jump
cups for my practice jumps, but can only find the UK Agility heights. This has confused me a
bit as there are four heights and I am certain KC competitions only cover three. So I wonder if
you can help me with the KC competition heights. I have searched KC website to no avail
and they have not replied to my enquiry.
Debs
A.
Hi
Debs -
Unlike UKA,
there are only three jump heights at Kennel Club licensed agility shows. The height limit
for dogs and hurdle height is usually published on Kennel Club Agility Show schedules.
Here they are
again:
Height Limit for Dogs:
-
Large Dogs –
those measuring over 430mm (1ft 5inches)at the withers
-
Medium Dogs
– those measuring over 350 mm (1ft 1.75 inches and those measuring 430mm (1ft 5 inches or
under at the withers
-
Small Dogs –
those measuring 350 mm (1ft 1.75 inches) or under at the withers
Hurdle Height:
-
Large dogs –
to be between 550mm (1ft 9.6ins) and 650mm (2ft 1.6ins)
-
Medium Dogs
- to be between 350mm (1ft 1.75ins) and 450mm (1ft 5.7ins)
-
Small Dogs -
to be between 250mm (9.8ins) and 350mm (1ft 1.75ins)
Hope you find
this information useful!
Docking in Agility - 2 Questions 1 Answer
Q. Hi Agility aunt or anyone who can help -
I am looking
to get a new puppy, I run working Lakeland terriers which are still being legally docked and I
know if I can't find an undocked one I will not be able to compete at Heelwork to Music. I am
worried that I may be unable to do some agility shows held where the public pay entry or if I
qualified it for Crufts or Olympia I would be banned. I am a bit confused because Mid Downs
didn't put it on their autumn schedule which is held at an agricultural show. There are many
breeds this applies too. Lots of German Short Haired Pointers are still being docked. Hope you
can help
Heidi
Q. Hi!
I am trying to
find out info on tail docking. My partner is looking at Patterdale terrier puppies for agility.
We have been told by some agility people that if it is docked it will not be able to compete
anywhere with paying public - e.g. Crufts, East of England Shows. We thought as long as it is
legally docked and has papers to prove this that it is fine.
Could you let
us know or direct us to a site / person who does? Clearly we do not want to end up with a pup
that turns out to be good and then cannot compete in certain places.
Gail Gibbins
A. Hi Heidi and Gail -
The ban on
docking is far reaching. Although aimed at dogs in the breed ring, it effects not only agility
dogs and heelwork to music dogs but dogs working in the media. You'll have to look hard to find
any photos of docked breeds or types in future training books.
The Docking of
Working Dogs' Tails (England) Regulations came into force on the 6 April 2007. The dogs that
are exempt from the tail docking ban are those which are certified working dogs. The rational
is that they are more likely to cause an injury to their tails that would be more painful than
if they were docked as pups.
The type of
dog you are interested in owning is listed as one of the specified types of dog -
Hunt/point/retrieve breeds of any type or combination of types, spaniels of any type or
combination of types and terriers of any type or combination of types. But do you participate
in one of the specified activities - law enforcement, Her Majesty’s armed forces; emergency
rescue; lawful pest control or the the lawful shooting of animals? These are the actives
defined as 'working' - not agility, obedience flyball or heelwork to music - and to obtain a
certificate of exemption, certain criteria must be met.
Docking must
be done by a veterinary surgeon and the pup must be less than five days old. Also, the owner or
his representative has to be someone who can verify his involvement in the approved specified
activities; for example, a game warden or prison officer. And for identification, the dog
must be microchipped. You would be okay to exhibit your dog docked dog's ratting skills or
abilities to work along side the local hunt at a country fairs where spectators pay a fee to
enter, but not agility. Agility is not an expression of natural working ability.
But you
want a dog for agility!
I look at the ban on tail docking as an opportunity to demonstrate to the breeders of
working types of dogs that we pet owners are able to give pooches the physical and mental
challenges necessary for a happy life. Agility dogs do not sit and watch television all day!
And there must be more of us than those that participate in the Regulation's specified
activities. Lakeland Terriers are better known this century as good companions rather than
vermin killers, and that is why many people choose to take them into their hearts and
homes. You should be saying to breeders, 'I really wanted a pup for agility where tails are a
must and it is a shame your litter is docked.' The times they are a' changing and the purpose
of these dogs are changing, too. Instead of worrying about the consequences of getting a docked
dog that won't be able to compete, lobby for one that isn't? And a tail would give your
dog greater agility potential by making him more physically balanced.
It is my hope
that there will be fewer and fewer docked dogs as the full force of the ban is felt. Many
people are questioning whether their favourite breeds need to be docked and are looking for
undocked pups. I hope you will join their ranks
From Donna Armstrong...
Having read you recent comments on tail docking I am really struggling to
understand. I was highly confused by the tail docking when I started looking for a litter of
pups, I was looking for a working cocker spaniel, as I already have a working springer that I
compete with and I believe they will complement each other very well (and hopefully keep out
of the large measurement), I will always go with working strains as opposed to show strains
for their physique and natures.
I eventually
rang the Kennel Club as at my training club I had heard conflicting information. The Kennel
Club assured me - I rang them twice and checked. in fact - that providing their tails were
docked prior to five days old, docking was carried out by veterinarian and certification of
docking and microchipping was done at the same time and also that the dogs pedigree showed it
was from working lines that it would be accepted for agility even in 'pay to view'
competition. The reason as explained to me is that due to the legal age of docking to
puppies, how could a breeder ascertain if a working strain puppy was going to be used for
work/agility/pet etc. in the time of five days. I was advised to always carry with me a copy
of the dogs pedigree and the tail docking certificate in case it should be questioned. Then I
read your article and now am even more confused.
Please help
all us agility enthusiasts out as it would be terrible to have been given incorrect
information and then risk being punished for it especially if you have an excellent agility
dog.
From S. Armstrong...
I have just read your reply to the questions about tail docking of dogs which are
used for agility. Your reply is very confusing and I am now none the wiser if docking is
allowed or not. I have left a deposit on a cocker spaniel puppy which I was wanting to use
for agility. It was docked within the specified time limit but after reading your
reply, I don't know if I will be allowed to do agility with her or not. Before I left a
deposit. I contacted the Kennel Club about tail docking. They assured me that tail docking
for agility in a cocker spaniel will be no problem. If you could please clarify the situation
for me with a straight 'yes it will be okay, or no it will not,' it would be much
appreciated.
A.
Hi Armstrong
Family -
I do apologise if I have only muddied
the agility waters for you. If you want a dog that has traditionally been docked, my advice is
to look for litters that are undocked and support breeders of pedigree and working lines who
let their puppies keep their tails. If you really like a particular line, the breeder may let
you choose a puppy at five days or earlier for yourself and dock all in the litter except him.
You have obviously thought a lot about
this and done your research. The current law is set out in section 6 of the Animal Welfare Act
2006, the Docking of Working Dogs' Tails (England) Regulations 2007 (SI 2007/1120). It is
well worth a read and you can draw your own conclusions. But if the Kennel Club say you will be
able to compete at their events, take them at their word or get them to put it in
writing. After all, they are the hosting the event!
I am not an authority on tail docking.
If you want to go ahead and buy a docked dog for agility, great if you are sure of your ground.
But don't get defensive if someone queries your status or entry because they will - just like
they still query height classifications despite official measurements being recorded in KC
books. You will always have to read the small print on your show schedules ... just in
case. For example, I have a schedule for a Kennel Club heelwork to music competition held
at All About Dogs this year which states “A docked dog, on or after 6th April 2007,
may not be entered at this show”. Not an agility schedule, but what if your dog is no
good at agility but loves heelwork?
You
never know what your puppy will grow into. If he does turn into an exceptional agility
dog, and you want to represent your country or combine agility with travel, remember that some
countries have very strict regulations. For example, the GB team that went to Norway were
not allowed to compete with docked dogs. No exceptions.
As
someone who loves a breed that was traditionally docked, my personal situation is reversed. I
am delighted to be able to find puppies with tails. The dogs look balanced and
demonstrate a greater physical athleticism and agility potential.
If you
really like the puppy you have chosen, go ahead and get it and the hell with whether it has a
tail or not. If chemistry between you and the dog is right, you will have a wonderful
life together.
Muzzles & Agility
Q. Hi -
My name is Kate and I would like to ask your opinion
about the use of muzzles in agility training for very excitable dogs. I have a border collie
who will concentrate well while doing his round, but has on occasion charged at other dogs
aggressively when he has completed the last obstacle. I have stopped going to the club since
the last incident and feel that it may be better to give up agility altogether.
I have been given lots of conflicting advice: to
continue to bring him but use a muzzle; to give up agility because he is so excitable. I would
really like to continue but not if it will get him into trouble. If wearing a muzzle is an
option, what kind would you recommend?
Kate
A. Hi Kate,
Before I try
and answer your question, I have to tell you about a home visit I did some years ago which has
always stuck in my mind. The lady had a nice young cross-breed and I had explained that knowing
the correct anatomical names for different parts of her dog's body would improve communication
with her vet. For example I asked, could she put her hand on her dog's muzzle? She
quickly left the room leaving her dog with me. I was stunned! Within minutes, she was
back holding a basket muzzle! So much for improving communication!
As for whether
to muzzle or not to muzzle, here are some things to consider:-
-
There are
different types of muzzles on the market. If you buy one, make sure it fits. Look at plastic
and wire basket muzzles as these allow your dog to breathe and pant to cool down. Agility is
a fast moving sport and your dog is sure to get out of breath and want to loll his
tongue in the fresh air. Avoid the cone shaped muzzles that keep your collie's jaws tightly
shut. This type of muzzle is designed for the dog to wear for short periods of time. Your
groomer will use this type on a snappy pooch during a tricky trim or the vet will fit one if
he has to examine a painful wound.
-
Most dogs
hate wearing a muzzle at the vets because it is associated with having an injection! Ooch!
If you are going to use a muzzle in agility, aim for a positive association. You will have to
take it off and on frequently so ensure that your dog is relaxed and happy to wear it. He
should want his muzzle to be put on just as much as he wants his lead to be attached to his
collar for a walk.
-
Be aware
that the straps and laces that hold a muzzle onto your dog's head could snag on the agility
equipment. Dogs wear the bare minimum in agility for this reason.
-
The general
public who see a dog wearing a muzzle will simply assume it is vicious. Agility folk are a
different breed and recognize that there may be a variety of reasons for a dog to wear a
muzzle ranging from aggression problems to coprophagia, poo eating.
-
Whether your
dog is wearing a muzzle or a diamante collar, other dogs will react to him as they always
have done. The only difference will be that your dog will not be able to bite back.
-
If your
collie wears a muzzle, it will prevent him from harming other dogs but it may not prevent him
charging, chasing or pinning them to the ground.
-
If your dog
wears a muzzle to class, you and your classmates will certainly feel more relaxed and your
dog's behaviour will be one less thing for you to worry about. You can get on with
concentrating on your weave entries or contacts. However, it will not be a cure. I stopped
biting my nails when I was wearing gloves through the winter but took it up again in the
summer.
-
If your
dog's aggression is a last fence phenomena, could it be corrected by training? You
could teach your dog to look for and pick up a toy, hit the deck in a down or immediately
recall to have his lead attached. Would your friends help you by keeping the area after the
last fence clear of other dogs so you could practice and experiment?
-
Is your
dog's excitement leading to aggressive behaviour in other environments? Have any
incidents resulted in bites? Perhaps it would be a good idea to have a consult with a
canine behaviourist for further help?
-
You won't be
the only one in agility who has a dog wearing a muzzle in class, in the queue or on the
exercise area. These dogs are safe and having fun and would welcome you into their ranks.
A muzzle is
certainly an option worth exploring, but not having seen your dog in class it is difficult to
say whether it would be my first choice of action. And remember that although it is your
decision alone to make, you will need the help and co-operation of your friends at training. So
do consult with them, too.
From Christine Phillips...
This is
about the Muzzles and Agility. I'd just like to say to the lady, please, please don't give
up. You will overcome this problem one way or another.
Our dog is
dog aggressive when he feels trapped, crowded, or is eye balled by another dog. At training
everyone is aware of the problem we have with Jack - he's rescue, and had been very badly
treated - and it's the only thing we haven't overcome... yet. They are all fantastic about it
as they know we are very much aware of the situation and keep on top of it.
Jack sounds
very much like the lady's dog. Once it's his turn, he only has one thing on his mind and will
not leave the course to have a go at another dog. My (adult) son does the training, and has
found that if he doesn't treat the last obstacle as the last obstacle and calls Jack as if to
do another jump, it brings Jack away from the other dogs and gets his attention. He then puts
Jack in a down stay, until he has put his lead on. This works for us anyway.
At shows
Jack is muzzled apart from in the ring, and everyone has been brilliant. We've had no nasty
comments. Even when a dog has got to close and Jack has snapped, they can see he is muzzled.
We've even had people apologise to us for letting their dogs get too close. I usually stand
somewhere near the exit and if people and their dogs are standing close, I politely ask if
they'd mind moving back a bit and explain why. Again I've been thanked for this as they would
rather I asked them to move than their dog got attacked.
It was
embarrassing to start with as we felt they would be thinking why bring a vicious dog to a
show, but we know better now. The enjoyment Jack gets from doing agility very much outweighs
our embarrassment.
I really
hope the lady hasn't been put off. She is far from alone and it would be a great shame if she
gave up. I wish her every success in the future and hope she manages to overcome the problem
she has. (15 October 2008)
KC Registration
Q. Hi
there -
How can we find out if a
dog is registered at the Kennel Club. We only know his name is Buddy. He is a golden lab and
was born February 2005. The last known owner was a Mrs. N. Gome. 2 Weavers Close, Arbroath,
Angus DD11 1UT. Hope you can help.
Audrey
A. Hi Audrey,
You really haven't much information to
go on. The number of Labradors born in 2005 are probably in the thousands and, if Buddy was
registered with the Kennel Club, he would have a grand name like Lunar Eclipse at Blandford,
not his pet name. You can write to Mrs. Gome, Buddy's last owner, and to see if she has his
papers or you can contact the Kennel Club and see if they can help you.
Kennel Club Registration
When you buy a pedigree dog or puppy, the Kennel Club Breed Registration papers are
usually passed to the new owners by the breeder. Both parents must also be on the Breed
Register for their progeny to be added to it by the breeder. All that is left to do is the
transfer of ownership from the breeder to the new pet owner.
Paper Work
But not all dogs are registered. They probably hate paper work like me! There are
loads of unregistered pedigree dogs throughout Britain whose papers have gone astray or whose
breeders have simply not bothered to contact the Kennel Club.
Activity Register
You can register Buddy yourself on the Kennel Club Activity Register. This Register is
for dogs that do not qualify for the Breed Register and include dogs that can't prove their
pedigree, dogs that come from rescue homes, or dogs that are crossbreeds. It permits them to
compete and participate at Kennel Club licenced events like agility, flyball and heelwork to
music. And, best of all, you can make up your own fancy name that can include Buddy; for
example, Best Buddy or Buddy from Arbroath.
Sorry I can't be of more help. I am sure
you will continue to love Buddy, with or without his pedigree!
Wondering about Weaves
Q. Hi Auntie -
Our rescued Border Collie had obviously been well cared
for but taught very little! Now he will retrieve his Kong and his Dumb Bell and sits and
presents the Dumb Bell properly - fetches my husbands slippers and etc. He will now weave very
well but I do not know the official distance for the placing of the poles and whether he should
enter from the right or left. Does the distance vary with the size of the dog or is it a
standard measurement.
Thank you for any help you can offer regards this. My
hopeless failure is stopping him chasing rabbits; no real problem when he is loose but
when on a lead he can pull me over - any ideas?
Barbara M. Winter-Hodges. [Mrs]
A. Dear Mrs. Winter-Hodges -
There are so many dogs needing good
homes and I'm so glad to hear that you have opened your heart and added a border collie
to your family. They are a fantastic breed and you will have lots of fun learning new things
together.
Training you
Whether you are a new to dog ownership or not, it is important to remember that dog
training changes with each passing day. New gadgets appear on the market and everyone tries
to be the first to embrace the latest behavioural theories. And even if you have had many,
many dogs in the past, each new dog is unique and may require different handling. It can all
be a bit confusing and we can all do with some help and guidance. For example, where once we
had two height categories for agility dogs, we now have three! And when the grades were
introduced, everyone was in a pickle for a little while.
To train your dog
It does sounds like you need some help. Rather than trying to teach your collie all these
things on your own, why join a dog training club that holds obedience and agility classes?
There is a list of agility Clubs on
www.agilitynet.com. Look
for one in your area and give the organisers a ring. They will have regulation agility
equipment as well as being up to date on the latest rules and regulations governing the
sport. And it will be a good opportunity to socialize with like minded people and their
pooches. In the meantime, why not a good book. I can recommend
Dog Agility Training
which is in the Agility Warehouse.
Good luck!
Downgrading
Q. Hi Auntie -
I
wonder if you could tell me how I go about transferring my dogs details from Large jumping to
the class which allows large dogs who have health problems jump the smaller height (i.e. just
for fun).
My
bitch, following her litter in March of this year, is now unable to jump full height. This may
or may not be a temporary problem. She has seen a chiropractor and will have full x- rays in
the vey near future. I am very hesitant in running her full height until this has been sorted
but she gets very depressed when going to the shows to run the other dog.
Elaine
 A.
Hi Elaine -
How very sensible of you to
hold off running Willow at full height until she gets the all clear from your vet.
Once Willow has been
measured as large and the height classification has been recorded in her Kennel Club Record
book, that's it for life. The details cannot be changed so that you can compete in medium or
small standard classes.
However, you can enter
Willow in 'Any Size' classes at any time. These are special classes that are aimed at young or
inexperienced dogs that need low fences and easy courses, dogs that are too old to manage the
bigger jumps but love agility or dogs that are recovering from illness or injury and want to
have some fun regaining fitness. The classes are called 'Any Size' because any size dog
can enter but if you gain a place in this class, you will not be able to use the points towards
a warrant.
Hope this helps you and
that Willow gets the all clear soon!
Back Problems
Q. Hello -
I wonder if you can help me please. My Border Collie
bitch who is nine years nine months old is limping badly in her hind leg and I was
wondering whether a dog osteopath/physio might be a good idea. Do you have any lists of
reputable dog osteopaths or physiotherapists, preferably within reasonable reach of
Aberystwyth, Mid-Wales? I would be very grateful for any suggestions.
Gorwel Roberts
A. Hi Gorwel-
I'm so sorry to hear that your dog is limping.
Your first port of call is your vet who will have a number
of questions for you. When did she go lame – a few days ago or a few weeks ago? Is the
limping intermittent or all the time? Did it come on suddenly: for example, after jumping
off the A-frame, or did it appear gradually? And so on. The answers to these questions
and others will help your vet come diagnose and treat your pet or he may decide that further
investigations, like x-rays, are necessary before he reaches any conclusions. Your dog could be
limping for all sorts of reasons – a thorn in a pad, soft tissue damage, or something that is
broken.
It is always advisable to consult with your vet before
booking any hands-on treatment. Under the 1966 Veterinary Act, it is a legal requirement that
animal therapists, chiropractors and osteopaths only work under veterinary referral. Your vet
may already be working in association with a particular physiotherapist and happy to pass you
on or provide a letter of referral.
If you are keen to research, check out the The National
Association of Veterinary Physiotherapist and The Animal Massage Association (AMA).
They offer a national register of qualified animal practitioners. The Galen Therapy
Centre offers massage therapy to treat injuires and improve canine performance. And try the
McTimoney Chiropractic Association. They seek to promote good health and alleviate the causes
of aches and pains.
Hope this gives you a few ideas and that you little dog is
back on all fours soon!
Tunnel Trouble
Q. Hi Auntie-
I need some advise. I have a lovely two year old dog
whom I have been going to agility training classes for around a year. He is an anxious dog and
takes time to get accustomed to new dogs and people. He was settling nicely and running courses
well except he would never go through the soft tunnel unless someone holds the end slightly so
he can see a bit of daylight.
My trainer decided she wasn't having this and forced him
in the tunnel and then blocked the end so he was trapped. Obviously corned dog fought his
way out, barking at her. Now whenever he sees her, he barks at her and is even more anxious of
the tunnel. She stills thinks to force him to do it is the only way and so, whenever he sees
her, he is afraid and barks at her to stay away.
She is now saying if he goes for her it will be the last
thing he does. She is a complete bully. We were enjoying agility, but now I don't know if I
want to go this club anymore. Is this the normal Kennel Club training method. It seems like
bullying to me? We worked with him gradually lowering the tunnel on him each week and he was
getting used to feeling the cloth on his back. Now he is back to square one. She has undone all
the good work that was done before.
I am deeply distressed by what she has done and need
some advice as where do I go from here as I would like to keep up the sport as we were both
enjoying ourselves. Please help.
Anonymous
A. Hi Anonymous -
I am so sorry to hear that the fun has
gone out of agility for you! Neither you or your dog is having a good time at class. Blocking
the entrance of the tunnel so that a dog takes the easiest exit at the other end is a common
training method and usually no harm is done. But obviously not in this case. Blocking the
tunnel has not helped and has created new problems for you.
All trainers have their students best
interests at heart and I'm sure yours is upset by your distress. However, a lot of damage
can be done in the name of progress and any training method should be continually assessed as
it is being applied. So assess. You say your dog is frightened of the trainer who is bullying
you. Your trainer says force is the only way to go but is afraid the dog will go for
her. You need to part company!
How one trainer will solve a problem
will not necessarily be the same as the trainer round the corner or ten miles away. And,
yes, sometimes you have to stick with a training technique to give it time to bear fruit, but
you also have to recognize when things are going from bad to worse and call a halt and try
something different.
Have a look around at other clubs in
your area. Ask if you can spectate, before you sign up for a new class. You may have to travel
a little further, but it will be well worth it if you and your dog enjoy yourselves!
Cowpat Kim
 Q.
Dear Auntie -
Can you help me? I have a dog
called Cowpat Kim who is a complete sh... oops I mean little monkey in the ring. I was
wondering if I changed her name would she improve? With hindsight naming the dog after a pile
of poo was never going to inspire her in the ring. Any suggestions gratefully received
Karen
A. Hi Karen -
You have to be careful what you call
your dog. Some dogs do and some dogs don't live up to their names. I remember watching a dog
christened 'Flash' at a show who took four minutes thirty seconds to complete a course. It
seemed a life time.
And I often wonder, if the shoe was on
the other paw, what names our dogs would come up with for their owners.
The best names are short - one or two
syllables - like Gem, Sky or Tilly. It's really a matter of personal preference. I prefer
non-human names because I want to be sure it's my pet rather than someone's miscreant husband
who comes running when I call. I wouldn't choose a name that sounds like a command . Did
I say 'no,' 'go,' or 'Jo?'
Similarly, if you have more than one
dog, try to make their names different. Call 'Timmy' or 'Jimmy' and they could both
ignore you! And finally, I would never allow a child to name a pet after commiserating
with a mother who brought young 'Twerp' in to the vets for boosters. Imagine
yelling that name from your back door ... for the next ten or twelve years.
You haven't given enough details of your
problems in the ring for me to make any constructive comments. But, I do know that
improvement is more likely to occur with training rather than changing her name to 'Star,'
'Awesome' or 'Hero.' I like the name 'Kim' and, after having lived with it for so long, I'm
sure she thinks it's a great name too.
Vibes
Q. Hello -
We have a border collie who has speed and enthusiasm for
agility. She is great at home and at our training field but when she goes else where for a
private lesson she sniffs, goes slow and is stressed. I also am quieter, so perhaps its me?
When at shows she is fairly focused and will play in
show grounds, but I am also louder then? Is it me feeding her vibes at the lesson? or is it her
worrying because she is doing agility in a different environment? She only does these lessons
once a month.
Nicki
A. Hi Nicki,
Everyone, including you and your dog, will be more
comfortable in their own home. You will both be able to give a better performance in
front of your TV or in your private training field. Especially if you have treats or a toy in
your hand or pocket. Performing at a different venue in front of a trainer who you are hoping
to impress is a completely different matter. So you have arrived at your once a month private
lesson ...
It's now or never
Let's say you have been working on your weaves. Your dog is an expert at home. If a
mistakes occurs, who cares? It's an exception and she will get it right next time. But at
your lesson, you have just one chance to get it perfect if you want to show your teacher that
you have understood all her instructions and have practised. Pressure? Worse than being
judged in the ring where everyone expects the odd error due to competition nerves! Who said
getting an 'A' in class was going to be easier than getting a clear round at a show?
Listen and learn
When we train at home, we know exactly what we are doing. And we tend to practice
what we are good at rather than what really needs the extra work. It's less stressful
and immediately gratifying to do so. Following your own course plan is easy.
However, your trainer will be asking you to grow and develop. During your lesson you
will be challenged, asked to experiment with handling techniques and to try proofing
exercises. You have to not only think about what you are doing, but what your trainer wants
you to do. More pressure. And not everyone can cope with so much going on at once in their
head.
Expectations
I never expect my dogs to be as good in training as they are at home. And I never expect
them to be as good at a show as they are in training. As soon as you leave the
familiarity of your back yard, you and your dog will have upped the ante. There are too may
distractions and surprises out there! Where did that man with the video camera come
from? Why is my trainer wearing a hat? And why is what seemed so easy now so hard
to do? You need to lower your expectations every time you introduce a new variable. A
vicious cycle can occur if you are disappointed by your dog at a lesson, she picks up on your
despair and then performs even worse the next time you repeat the exercise. You are not just
disappointed but become baffled and try even trying harder to get it right and so on round
and round.
Have a chat
It may be worth having a chat with your trainer.
Many handlers are trained at a more advanced level than they compete so that shows will be a
piece of cake. Perhaps this is too much for you? Try asking for exercises that
are easier, where the likelihood of success is greater. Your confidence will grow and you
will be less stressed. Your dog may be shutting down because you are asking too much
too soon. She goes slowly because she's having trouble understanding you and she
doesn't want to make a mistake When you and your dog are more relaxed, you will find you are
training more like you do in your own field. Yeah!
Aims
You hear it all the time. 'My dog is
great at home.' And home is where the heart is. So try to make both private lessons and shows
as much like training at home as possible. Keep your heart beat slightly elevated but not
racing. Speak to your dog in the same voice, not too high or too loud. Look ready for action
but don't go hyper. I know. It's easy to say but harder to do. But try! Good luck!
Chasing the Championship
Q. Dear Agility Auntie -
My problem is I run a border collie called Shy and I
have two tickets (cc's) but I need a third to become an Agility Champion. I can get seconds and
thirds in the Champ classes all the time, but I have been struggling to get the third for
nearly two years now. So my question is 'Do you think i should resort to going to Scotland to
win it?' I hear it's easy to win up there and a clear round usually gets the ticket. That's why
there is a southern invasion going on up there every Champ class. Thank you for your advice in
advance.
Lee & Shy
P.S. Perhaps Ireland, too? Does the Isle of Man count
anymore?
A. Hi Lee -
In your own words, 'My problem is I run a border
collie...' Collies are the breed of choice in agility. They are easy to train and need very
little handling because they can read the numbers on the course. They are often called 'winning
machines' by people who don't have one. It’s no surprise you have high expectations and that
you have been disappointed. If you can't get your last ticket with a collie, my heart goes
out to you. You have no alternative. No, not a trip to Scotland... a Poodle!
This breed is well known for their clowning and tongue in
cheek antics on the circuit, much like you! What other type of dog would insist on running a
circular knock-out in the opposite direction to the rest of the competitors? Or taking
the last fence first? Or posing on the dog walk for ten minutes for Japanese tourists and
their cameras? They are such stirrers, too. You have to have a sense of humour if you run a
poodle. Moreover, it is rumored that if you compete with a miniature poodle, it's easy to win
because all the other handlers are little old ladies who can‘t remember the course. A poodle is
your perfect match!
Joking aside, don’t listen to rumours. The only good reason
to go to Scotland is the shortcake and whisky. And how awful if you drove all the way there and
Shy knocked a pole! If you are the best dog and handler team on the day, you will win that
third ticket wherever you are competing. And with two wins already, I’m sure it won’t be long
in coming. I look forward to seeing you and Shy at Crufts 2009
And, what are you going to call your new poodle? Bashful?
Big Jumps
 Q.
Hi Auntie -
I have a black lab and we have only
been doing agility since September 2007. Everything is going great and both Charlie and I are
really enjoying it, however, since the jumps in the class have moved from medium to large
height he will not jump them. He either goes round, under or takes the pole and tries to run
off with it! I just wondered if you could recommend anything to try and urge him over the large
jumps. He will jump one large one on it's own but as soon as you introduce more than one - it
just seems to go wrong. Charlie is five in July and is fit and active. He has lost a bit of
weight recently on the urging of my instructor.
Many thanks for any tips you can
offer.
Nicola McCarthy
A. Hi Nicola -
It may only be a question of a few
inches, but the difference between a Medium and a Large jump can be as vast as the Atlantic
Ocean for many of the dogs that have to move to bigger hurdles. There are a number of things
you can do.
Fighting Fit
Make sure that Charlie is fighting fit.
Labs are not the breed that springs to mind when you think of agility, but they love the
sport and, provided they are trained with compassion and kindness, they can be very
competitive. You have already put Charlie on a diet and report that he has lost a few pound.
Check with your vet and find out his ideal weight. In addition, your vet may run a slimmers
clinic where Charlie can be weighed regularly and you can obtain advice on diet and exercise.
Perhaps you can embark together on circuit training, jogging through the woods or swimming?
Build strength, speed and stamina gradually. Consider buying some DAQ equipment (www.daqinternational.com)
and design a fitness program that will help Charlie make it over the top bar!
In Between
There is a big difference between medium
and big jumps. Instead of moving the pole directly from one size category to the other, move
up gradually. Don't make a giant leap to standard size. Moving to the big jumps bit by bit
will make the transition easier for Charlie. It could just be that you have raised the pole
too quickly in too big a step.
Up and Down
Run Charlie over sequences of medium, in
between and large hurtles. It will keep him thinking and moving. No time to take a bar in his
mouth! You are likely to have more success throwing in the odd standard height than changing
all the heights all at once. You can then gradually raise the smaller ones as Charlie
demonstrates greater jumping proficiency.
Double poles
You could try double poles which would
prevent Charlie going underneath. They act as a barrier (although some dogs still manage to
flatten themselves and crawl through). When Charlie was jumping consistently, you could fade
the extra pole.
Jump Command
Charlie should know that when you say
'jump,' he is to sail over the top bar, not limbo dance under it or duck around it. He should
be checking out the height of a hurtle as he approaches and prepares for take off to clear
it. Make sure that you are using a verbal command.
Body Language
And back it up with meaningful body
language. Are you pointing below or above the pole? Charlie has to look where he is going -
up - and if he thinks you are pointing at a treat on the ground, he will keep his nose
down and miss the jump completely!
Rewarding
Are you rewarding Charlie for going over
the fence with praise, a treat, a toy or another piece of equipment that he likes? Set up a
circle of medium fences that takes him past the tunnel if that is his favourite. Send him
round the circle. Yeah! Reward him with a trip through the tunnel. Gradually raise the
fences. If Charlie ducks under, mark it with an 'oops.' No jump, no tunnel reward.
Teach Charlie that hurdles are fun.
Running under the poles is a common fault with inexperienced agility dogs often caused by
raising the poles too much, too quickly. I am sure with patience Charlie will be clearing them
soon!
Ageless Question
Q. Hi Auntie -
Can you tell me what age a dog should be to start
agility?
Debbie with Bailey
A. Hi Debbie,
Your dog is never too old or too young to start training.
It will vary, but most agility clubs insist that new dogs should have finished growing before
they start training on the equipment. This usually occurs when the dog is about a year old,
sooner for the miniature breeds that mature more quickly than the larger breeds. It's hard to
imagine a cute cuddly puppy evolving into a mature muscled agility athlete, but with some
forethought and careful planning, it happens. And there is a lot of ground to cover in between,
so don‘t rush through all the stages. Be patient!
Stage One
Puppies pursue their own fitness program. They learn to climb
stairs, jump off the settee and squeeze through the cat flap. Everything they meet is a joy
whether it is a daisy to taste or a leaf that must be chased. Little puppies don't have the
stamina for a hour's class or the co-ordination for zigzagging through the weaves. They sleep
a lot! When awake, they will be playing games with you and their toys. You can
integrate fetch and tugging into future training, so make sure it‘s fun from the start. Try a
little clicking and treating at meal times if you want to use a clicker tool. And don't
forget to introduce good manners. When you finally meet your agility instructor, your dog
should not jump up and knock him to the ground!
Stage Two
Basic obedience exercises like the sit, down, recall and wait have
practical implications for everyday life and are important in agility, too. Attending a puppy
class at your vets or a dog training club is a good way to not only master the basics and try
different training techniques but it's a great opportunity to meet new dogs and people.
Agility is a very social sport and a dog needs to be comfortable around other canines and
unfamiliar faces. The sooner you get your puppy out and about, the better!
Stage Three
There are a number of dog training clubs that offer 'pre-agility'
classes for youngsters. Dogs that are too young to jump hurdles but old enough to start
working on motivation and fitness really get a head start. There are many agility exercises
that can be done without the equipment on the flat; for example, learning to run on both the
left and the right. Many instructors include DAQ exercises ( www.daqinternational.com ) which
are a great way to prepare your budding star both physically and mentally for the ring.
The aim throughout each stage should be to have a good
time. The more you do together, the stronger your rapport with your dog will become and I
believe that communication is an essential ingredient in agility. Many handler/dog teams seem
telepathic. You don't need an A-frame to teach your dog to be a mind-reader! Start developing a
partnership as soon as your get your puppy home. Is this agility training? I think so! Don't
delay!
The opinions expressed by The Agility Aunt do not necessarily reflect
those of the webmaster.
| 
.jpg)
To
contact Agilitynet 